Purandar situated at a distance of 40m kms south east of Pune is a hill fort known for its unique location. Perched over a gigantic mountain at a height of about 1398 meters above sea level, Purandar is one of the highest forts in Maharashtra and witnesses a topographical change along its height. High rainfall zone mountains lie on the western side of the fort while the plateau on the eastern end experiences low rainfall.
Before going into the other details let us first peep into the history of the fort. The mountain on which the fort is constructed was known as the “Indraneel Parvat”. It is believed that this mountain was created when a portion of land slipped from the hands of Lord Hanuman when he was carrying the Dronagiri mountain range. The first Bahamani king Hasan Gangu then built this fort on the mountain in the year 1350 after he gained control over Maharashtra.
The fort then fell into the hands of the Nizamshahi rulers in1484 AD who controlled the fort for a long spell of over hundred years. The fort was then passed on to Maloji Bhosale, grandfather of Shivaji, in the year 1596. Shivaji Maharaj took over the fort in 1646 after a long struggle with the Mughal Empire. The Mughals, however, won it back from Shivaji in 1665 under the leadership of Jai Singh and Dilir Khan after an intense battle with Murar Baji Prabhu, the brave commander of the fort, who lost his life while protecting it. The treaty of Purandar was signed after this epic battle in which Shivaji agreed to surrender 23 of his forts to the powerful Mughal Empire. He, however, recaptured the fort of Purandar from the Mughals in the year 1670 AD.
The well fortified fort of Purandar is divided into two levels- the lower part of the fort which is relatively flat is known as the machi which is 300 metres above the plain while the upper part is known as Balekilla. The northern end of the machi houses a number of old monuments which includes the “Dilli Darwaza”. The north facing darwaza is flanked by two lions on either side. A narrow path from here will lead you to Kandakada, which is nothing but a huge rock located in the east. This point offers a very good view of the Vajragad fort and the Bhima valley below.
A set of stairs that start from this point lead you directly to the upper level of the fort via Ganesh Darwaza. This winding path takes you to the highest part of the fort which is home to the Mahadev temple which is also known as the Kedareshwar temple. The Rameshwar temple, Purandar machi, Bhairav Khind and Padmavati Lake are some other attractions worth exploring.
This fort provides plenty of opportunity for rock climbing. Trekking up Purandar is not very difficult because the climb is not very steep. Once on the top the place provides a panoramic view of the surrounding areas. It takes about three and a half hours to get to the fort from the base village which is Narayanpur and about 45 minutes from Purandeshwar mandir.
Bini Darwaja (बिनी दरवाजा)
History ---------------
The earliest known mention of Purandhar is in the reign of the first Bahmani king, Hasan Gangu. When he obtained possession of Maharashtra,he fortified Purandhar in 1350. During the early rule of the Bijapur and Ahmednagar kings, Purandhar was among the forts directly under Government, and never entrusted to jagirdars (estate-holders).[2] Sometime under the Bedar kings (1347 -1490) the fort was besieged several times. To prevent Purandar fort from falling, a man and a woman were buried alive under one of the fort bastions to appease its patron diety.
In 1596, when Bahudar Shah of Ahmednagar sultanate granted Maloji Bhosale(grandfather of Shivaji) Poona and Supa, the fort of Purandhar was included as well. In 1646, a 16-year-old Shivaji in one of the first victories of his legandary career, established control in the fort. In 1665, it was besieged by the forces of Aurangzeb, under the command of Raja Jai Singh, a Rajput general, assisted by Diler Khan, an Afghan. The defense of Purandar by Murarbaji Deshpande of Mhar, the killedar (keeper of the fort) was obstinate and he lost his life in the struggle to retain the fort. Shivaji daunted at the prospect of the fall of his grandfathers fort, signed a treaty (the first Treaty of Purandar) with Aurangzeb. Purandar fort along with Vajragad, Sinhgad and 22 other forts came under the Aurangzeb's control and Shivaji became his jagirdar (glorified tenant). This truce did not last long as Shivaji revolted against Aurangzeb and recaptured Purandhar only five years later in 1670. Thereafter, Shivaji spent prolonged periods of time here. Sambhaji, Shivaji's eldest son and successor was born at Purandar fort.[1] [2]
Under the Peshwas, Purandhar was a stronghold to which they retreated whenever Pune, their capital, was under attack. Likely because the fort commands a pass through the Sahyadri mountain range. In 1776, a treaty was signed between the British Government and the Maratha States(the second Treaty of Purandar). Its conditions were never fulfilled, being overruled by the subsequent Treaty of Salbai in 1782 between the Bombay Government and Raghunathrao, at the close of the First Anglo-Maratha War.[2]
In 1818, Purandhar was invested by a British force under General Pritzler. On the 14th of March, a British garrison marched into Vajragad the smaller fort. As Vajarad commanded Purandhar, the commandant had to accept terms and the British flag was hoisted at Purandhar on the 16th March, 1818. [2]
View of Purandhar Fort from Purandar villageDuring British rule it was used as a prison. A German prisoner Dr. H. Goetz was kept here during World War II. He studied the fort during his stay there and later published a book on it. It major use however was as a sanatorium for British soldiers.
Structures within the fort -----------
The fort has two distinct levels. The lower part is called the machi. North of the machi is a flat area where the cantonment and hospital was housed. There are many temples decicated to Purandeshwar(the fort's patron god, from which it also takes its name) and Sawai Madhavrao Peshwa here. There is a statue of Murarbaji Deshpande, the fort-keeper (killedar) who gave his life to protect the fort from the Mughals. The northern part of the machi has a low fall with several bastions and an imposing gate with two towers. [2]
From the lower level a staircase leads to the upper level or Ballekilla. The first structure of the Ballekilla that comes into view is the Dilli Darwaza. This area also houses an ancient Kedareshwar(Shiva) temple. The higher level called Ballekilla is surrounded by steep drop on three sides.
Purandar Fort History :
According to Diler Khan`s plan, he was to lay siege to Purandhar, which was then guarded by Murar Baji, the Maratha Governor. But, laying siege to Shivaji`s well-guarded possessions was not so easy, for the methods which Shivaji`s men adopted in defence were similar to those they used in attack. The method was always the same, namely to have short and quick engagements with the enemy rather than to face him in pitched battle. The secret of Shivaji`s success was that he adopted the methods of guerilla warfare and his men followed his example even when attacked at Purandhar. With his modest garrison of 2,000 Mavalis and Hetkaris, Murar Baji staved off the Mughal attack. He blocked every point of approach by sending out parties of stragglers whose tactics were to nibble at the Mughal forces rather than to face them four squares.
Diler Khan was adamant in carrying out his plan. Determined to destroy this Maratha fortress, he decided to use gunpowder to mine the main rock on which the lower fort of Purandhar was built. He succeeded in doing this, but his follow through was resisted by the Mavalis. The Maratha troops opened fire on their attackers from the upper fort and a fierce and desperate battle ensued. The Mughals charged with Pathans and Afghans, with Diler Khan himself, mounted on an elephant, directing the operation. The battle for Purandhar fort ended in a hand to hand fight between the soldiers of Shivaji and those of the Emperor. At one stage Murar Baji came so close to Diler Khan that they were even exchanging verbal threats at close quarters. Murar Baji, deprived of his shield in battle, was struggling to strike at Diler Khan with his naked sword. But Diler Khan, realising the desperateness of the situation, shot at Murar Baji with his bow and arrow. The arrow killed the Maratha Governor and as he died, his scattered forces retreated to the upper fort and closed the gates.
Timely assistance, however, came to the besieged garrison from Shivaji, who sent out an extra force, which announced its arrival with trumpets and war drums. This the Mughals had not anticipated and, taken by surprise by the reinforcements which Shivaji had sent, Diler Khan lost the early advantage which he had gained. But the Mughal commander remained undaunted. The battle continued, but the forces of nature came to the assistance of Shivaji, for the monsoon rains broke over the battleground which greatly dislocated Diler Khan`s plans and disarrayed his forces. It was soon realised by Diler Khan that the battle was merely leading to the loss of life without any progress being made towards the capture of the fort. Negotiations were thus renewed with Shivaji and a personal meeting was arranged between the Maratha and the Rajputs. Thus peace was restored by means of a peace mission between the Marathas and the representative of the Mughals.
On the appointed day the peace mission to Jay Singh was led by Shivaji himself, riding on an elephant, with his retinue of followers gaily and gaudily dressed for the occasion. Shivaji was on his way to Jay Singh`s camp and he took with him his old envoy, Raghunath Pant, and his most trusted Mavali followers. It was safer to be well escorted even on this mission of peace to a Rajput for no one could be relied upon in those days.
There followed an exchange of courtesies. Shivaji first banqueted Jay Singh and Diler Khan and other chiefs of the Mughal forces. Then the Mughals returned Shivaji`s hospitality with equal sumptuousness and grace. Some sort of armistice was concluded even though it turned out to be temporary. Admittedly Shivaji had to make concessions to win the friendship of the Mughals. He agreed to relinquish twenty of the mirty-two forts he had taken. The Mughals agreed to leave him the other twelve, together with the territory adjoining the forts. Annual revenue often lakhs of rupees was conceded to Shivaji but the rest of the bequests that were to be made to the Maratha were left to be decided upon by the Emperor himself. Shivaji also agreed to provide a military force which would be available for service to the Emperor, but it was understood that all these tentative arrangements made between the Maratha and the Emperor`s commanders were to be ratified by the Emperor. Compliments flowed from both sides, each extolling the greatness of the other and there was a brief lull in the Deccan which had for so long been seething with battle.
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